“Its new, I’ve never worn it,” my father would say as he hands me down a mothball scented pair of grey pants. “Just because you haven’t worn it, doesn’t make it new,” I would say rolling my eyes so that I do not have to witness the sacrilege before me. I am sure many of us “dadaba” (privileged), as well as the “average” Ghanaian kids have similar horror stories to tell from the past. However, in recent years these old pair of mothballs have actually become quite fashionable, as the old has become cool again. Who knew? As an extension of that, Ghana, which imports more second hand clothes than any other country in Africa (around 30,000 tons of used clothes) plays a vital role in the lifecycle of clothes from the west.
Kantamanto is located near Markola market about ﬁve kilometers from Adabraka in Accra, Ghana. This is where you can ﬁnd many of the second hand/donated clothes from the west (mainly UK, Korea and China). This is the place where everybody shops, literally, my mom, my friends, the guy I drove past a the bus stop the other day. So how does this second hand market even work? Well ﬁrst of all there has to be a supply to match the demand. That is where donations come in. See, people in the western world, UK, Canada etc get bored of their clothes once the new fashion trends are in (which is about every other week or so, prove me wrong). This fast fashion trend of inexpensive clothing that has been mass-marketed by retailers get donated to second hand clothing stores or the salvation army or something. These organizations sell what they can in their home countries but the bulk of donated clothes will be sold to distributors who will ship the clothes to Africa, most usually Accra. The whole sellers pick up the wrapped up stack of clothes, called “bail” and sell them oﬀ to sellers in Kantamanto, who then sell it to streetwise urbanites or boutique owners looking for a good deal.
The clothes that come into Kantamanto range in quality from the uber classy, Ralph Lauren, Polo, H&M? to the probably less known and knock oﬀ brands. The second hand clothes are known as “broni we wu” (the white man has died). The reason being that down here people think that the only way that someone would let go of these clothes is if they were dead. Anyway, fresh “new” second hand clothes make their way to the wardrobes of Accra and Kumasi’s worker ants, searching for a good deal. Which you can ﬁnd if you made it to the market really early - like say 7am - 8am. After that you have the clothes with damage on them, tears, or stains etc. These clothes are called second class, whereas the top tier ones are called ﬁrst class.
The most interesting thing about Kantamanto is the seeming lack of organization. But if you look closely the place is very well organized. It is a maze of sellers yelling at you “shorts!” “women’s dresses” I even heard someone say “50 get it for 5” clearly an amazing deal! But through this labyrinth you can ﬁnd basically anything you are looking for, well apart from a good partner! Clothes: brand name, knock oﬀs, women’s dresses, from classy to trashy, babies clothes, electronics:
playstation 2, the original xbox, plumbing, curtains anything - you name it, its there. It is illegal to sell underwear, but you can ﬁnd it, trust me.
I kept asking myself this question: “Why is it so hot?” well another question, that is: why do people buy clothes from Kantamanto? I mean isn’t there some stigma associated with wearing second hand clothing? There are even some detractors that say the Kantamanto is killing the local clothing market. People are more inclined to be SECOND HAND CLOTHES FROM OUTSIDE GHANA, than “ﬁrst hand?” clothes from people who hone their craft here. This goes along a very protracted, on going debate about how Ghanaians do not patronize their own country man’s/woman’s work. Which to a certain extent is true. But from the people I talked to (which included locals, my mom, Ghanaians who have lived outside and foreigners who live in Ghana right now) I realized that the reason isn’t some thing deep, its just cheap. You can get ﬁve decent tops from Kantamanto with the same money you would use to purchase one at a high end store or boutique.
When I was ﬁrst contemplating how to approach this article, I was thinking that there would be something to be said about creative reuse. That is, taking something that has been discarded and adding value to it then reselling it. Something about decluttering your life because as a culture - a global culture we have too many things, many of which we don’t need, per se (I do need that extra pair of bluetooth headphones thank you very much!). But when it came down to it, on the ground in Kantamanto it wasn’t about that. We, as consumers are always looking for a good deal. I went with a friend of mine (named Docas Lanister probably because she always pays her debts) and she was able to purchase a lovely gold and black, skin hugging dress for thirty eight cedis (conversion into euro). The seller had mentioned adamantly the she was sell it for forty. After a protracted, but interesting haggling session: “forty” my friend shakes her head: “thirty-ﬁve” they “agreed” on thirty eight. It goes to show the savvy of the modern day Ghanaian consumer. Amid the sights, sounds, smells and general feeling of being overwhelmed in this vibrant corner of the city - you can ﬁnd gold.
To stay with the times we must all readjust our outlook on how we consume. Fashion is no diﬀerent. Some of us who would have once rolled our eyes at hand me down’s or second hand clothes, now probably look at them with a new lens. Either a lens of mindful consumption or a good deal - either way I will be rocking those mothball scented pair of grey pants with my head held high.
By Helel Smith
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